There’s something elemental about Jigsaw’s Autumn Winter 17 collection. Be it the return of puffas and parkas or the new Nordic prints; the thick striped knits or the rubber coated accessories. ‘We were influenced by ‘The Weather Diaries’; a book that accompanied the Nordic Fashion Biennale and set the tone for the season’, says Sally Graveling, Head of Wovens, whose team pulled colours from tempests and barren landscapes—Storm Grey, Optic White, Copper—to stand starkly against nautical knits and a canvas of utilitarian black denim.
Whilst on a research trip to Copenhagen, the design team stumbled upon a store called ‘Maritime Antiques’. It housed an unusual mix of contemporary brands re-creating traditional fishermen’s attire into modern guises, alongside real antique sea faring paraphernalia such as anchors and fishing nets. This sparked the Maritime world, inspiring a focus on traditional pieces such as the peacoat, the Breton and fisherman’s ribbed sweaters, all styled in Jigsaw’s luxurious yarns and contemporary silhouettes. We kept a simple, yet bold colour palette of navy, ecru, maritime blue, stone and mustard yellow, and played with the graphic impact of stripes and colour blocking.
A lively collection of Nordic Orange, Deep Fuchsia and Warm Spice is set against winter tones of Dark Petrol, Aqua Grey and rich Navy. The team worked on key prints to celebrate Autumn Winter colour; inspired by traditional folk florals and incorporating a riot of shapes and blocks cut in breezy, fluid style. ‘The Nordic Floral culottes are perfect with tucked slim knits’ says Lucia Wood, Head of Knitwear, ‘they’ll love your trainers and ankle boots in equal measure.’
The idea of surrounding Nordic landscapes inspired Jigsaw’s in house artist, Lisa Berridge, to create graphic floral prints which have been worked in to stand out patterns and softer blown out shapes; plucked and placed for a modern effect on silk dresses and allowed to go wild on jersey tops. And the ethereal feminine tone brought by florals doesn’t stop there. Flocking, embroidery and beading following snow prints and wind patterns make for beautiful, atmospheric detailing. Rich hues and fluid cuts in culottes, cocoon coats and sumptuous knits are the building blocks for the perfect new season wardrobe.
With a Nordic Maritime story influenced by Denmark and their rich naval heritage of protecting Greenland and the Faro Islands, we named the stripe sweater ‘The Henriksen’ after the founder of the Danish navy. Some of our other cashmere pieces were given common names found on the Faro islands like the ‘The Stina’, ‘The Nikita’ and ‘The Nova’.
Lithe and airy, try our Fine Alpaca Knit for a lightweight fashion statement. And opt for cashmere when the mercury drops. New developments in spinning, knitting and finishing enabled the team to create innovative yarns including ‘Halo’ cashmere—a luxurious pile that has the softness of mink and a dreamy, delicate haze.
‘One of the most beautiful things about cashmere is that it really holds colour well and gives it a richness and depth, making our bold colours come to life, ‘ says Lucia, ‘I have so many favourites this season. I’m torn between the punchy mustard of the Purser sweater with its extra long button cuffs or the vivid Nordic orange of the Halo cashmere Nova sweater. I think I’ll have to get both to lift me through the cold dark days of winter!’
Poet Inua Ellams, an internationally renowned touring playwright, performer and designer was commissioned to write a poem inspired by the design team’s work. The resultant words delved into the power of femininity; of nature and the weather and their energetic flow into all aspects of life. ‘It was such a radical and exciting start for the season,’ notes Sally ‘using Inua’s words to conjure up our story rather than starting from visual imagery, as is our usual method.’
The words can be found hidden on the lining of our Storm coat, and swirling on the face of our modern silk tee. ‘The moodboard and colour palettes, came to life through his words,’ continues Sally, ‘I’ll be purchasing the Storm Coat this season as I know it will be a contemporary staple in my wardrobe for seasons to come, smartening up any outfit and giving me a sharp touch. I will be so happy to wear a piece with such powerful words inside, not for show, just for my pleasure.’
What this means for Autumn Winter
Clashing hues | Billowing satin | Sumptuous cashmere | Classic stripes | Modern silhouettes | Utilitarian black denim | Relaxed tailoring | Oversized, midi and tailored outerwear | Warm colour | Kinetic landscapes | Soft touch | Rich texture | Colour popping separates | Clean lines | Snow patterns | Wind spirals | Mix and match | Statement accessories | The ultimate dresses | Fluid femininity | Stand-out prints | Blown out shapes
By Josie Johnson