There’s something sporty about this season’s menswear collection which looks to the 1960 Squaw Valley Winter Olympics for inspiration. Set beside Lake Tahoe in California, the retro Americana influence translates from pre-collection into heavyweight outerwear and knitwear for Autumn Winter. From lightweight grid checks to flannel multi plaids, our menswear designers pay reference to Olympic spectators and their heavy blizzard coats, hardy suede bombers with shearling collars and heavy gauge knitwear. And the Olympian reference doesn’t stop there. Jersey sees ski-inspired layering pieces with lightweight mock necks and pique textured joggers.
For AW17 we cross the Atlantic. A retro spirit runs through the collection in sporty silhouettes, colour block graphics and bold Americana checks. Outerwear is the highlight, from the heavy blizzard coats inspired by the Olympic spectators to tailored top coats in heavy boucle wool textures. – Claire French, Head of Menswear Design
Tailoring becomes unstructured and relaxed, taking on a sportswear feel. Heavy fusings and built-up shoulders are stripped out in place of high twist wools with feather-light constructions. Jersey structures traditionally used in shirtings are re-worked into deconstructed jackets and tailored trousers for a new take on tailoring.
The ice paintings of American expressionist artist Kenneth Noland influence the primary colour palette of Alabaster White, Slate Blue, Flint Grey, Ebony Black with highlights of Amber, Redberry and Hunter Green.
15-piece Capsule Collection
Part two takes inspiration from the uniforms of the Oil Rigger, the Woodsman and the Miner, a 15-piece capsule collection for the modern wardrobe. Out of the workshop and into the elements, the collection explores garment dye workwear for the foul-weather workers.
Two-Ply relates to the construction and double processes undertaken, with double layer shirts, jersey and double ply knitwear. Multi-fabrications are pieced together through panelling and patches, then garment dyed to achieve an irregular tone-on-tone look across outerwear, shirts, trousers, jersey and knitwear. Tonal trims are updated with self covered snaps and a prepared-for-dyed button made from pulped cotton, allowing the trim to take the dye to the same shade as the main fabric.
The disciplined palette colours of Midnight, Olive Fir and Sandstone are achieved through natural mineral dyes, a primitive dying technique dating back to the Bronze age. Mineral dyes are created from vegetable and plant based extracts ground down into pigment to create earthy, irregular tones.