The Jackal’s Style Director Gareth Scourfield and Jigsaw’s Menswear Director Claire French were in conversation at the Jigsaw Emporium on Duke Street last night, discussing the launch of our new menswear collection. Two-Ply. Named in reference to the construction and double processes used in the dying process.
Out of the workshop and into the elements for the uniforms of The Oil Rigger, The Woodsman and The Miner. Two layers (two-ply) of fabric go through two processes to create double layer shirts, jersey and double ply knitwear. Multi-fabrications are pieced together through panelling and patches and then garment dyed to achieve an irregular tone-on-tone finish.
“The inspiration came from a visit to one of our dye houses in Portugal,” says Claire French, Menswear Director. “We discovered a new dying process which uses minerals such as clay, charcoal and plant based extracts to add colour to clothes and loved the irregular finish.”
Lumps of real clay were placed into the dye vat and the natural colour of the mineral would transfer to the garment, giving it a rich patina and character. This became the inspiration behind our colour palette of Sandstone, Olive Fir and Midnight. The design team then combined these new dying processes with workwear silhouettes to create the three characters: The Oil Rigger, The Miner and The Woodsman.
Tonal shades of green across the foul-weather parka, shirts, knitwear and fleece jersey for The Woodsman. A spotted Sandstone effect across the chore jacket, double layer jersey, shirts and trousers for The Miner. And for The Oil Rigger; a clear coated varnish panelling for a weatherproof matte look applied on the oil-rigger cape, knitwear and over-shirts.
“Functionality plays a key part in everything we design at Jigsaw Menswear. Each season we visit vintage archives and access historical pieces of workwear dating back to the 1920-60s and study original details,” Claire continues. “I think the appeal of workwear is that it’s totally democratic. It was designed for a real purpose to protect manual workers. It’s functional. And because of these qualities has a super broad appeal, whether you’re 25 or 55. I think it’s more a question of how it’s styled and which pieces you feel comfortable in.”
The pieces have a unique edge and functional versatility. “The beauty of the Two-Ply collection is in its tactility, so keep your looks simple with the soft shirts and team with white tees and navy cotton twill trousers,” says Gareth Scourfield, The Jackal’s Style Director. Don’t wear it head to toe. Choose pieces like the Vegetal Dye Chore Jacket or the Merino Garment Dyed Rib Jumper and pair with jeans, checks and tailoring.
Our favourite piece? “The washed cotton dungarees are the quintessential piece in a modern man’s workwear wardrobe,” he elaborated. “Keep them relevant by teaming with a soft colourless shirt under and a patch pocket work jacket over.”
By Josie Johnson